What's The Ugly Facts About Audi G28
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작성자 Oliver 작성일 25-01-06 07:11 조회 2 댓글 0본문
How to Replace an audi a3 key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician teaches how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can start spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This means that the Crank Shaft is out of alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also be a sign of an issue with the chain or a jump in the chain link of the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing can be a bit difficult as there are two different pins for the connector and they perform different functions but the best method to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is fully functional, it should read approximately 1000 ohms. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll i had massive power loss as if the engine was running out of gas or injectors are not firing anymore. I took out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were soaked with gasoline and the fourth was dry. I placed a tissue over each injector hole, and when I turn the engine on without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump out. The fourth one remains closed. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55, 30/55 and 48/55. i get zero ohm. I'm assuming the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it runs fine with the G28 plugged in. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not certain what to do, as i believe that i've ruled out everything else. But i'm worried that i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal sent from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or in a local parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make decisions regarding fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these sensors go bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or an unfire when in gear. If you have any of these issues it is likely that your sensor is going bad and needs replacing. They're inexpensive and easy to locate especially if they're an Bosch sensor like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part is an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a variety of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission of your replacement audi key fob, as it transmits information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other components of the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located near the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It transmits a signal via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU is then able to process this signal to control fuel, timig, and boost and then sends it on to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster. You can test for sensor failure by checking continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. You can also verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between those points. This is a common part across the audi q5 key tt audi key programmer case; click over here, 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician teaches how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is situated on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the outside of the transmission, above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits a signal via the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to control fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and the location of the camshaft so it can start spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display an error code P00160. This means that the Crank Shaft is out of alignment with the Intake Camshaft. It could also be a sign of an issue with the chain or a jump in the chain link of the upper chain of timing. The code will not appear without the additional information supplied by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing can be a bit difficult as there are two different pins for the connector and they perform different functions but the best method to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. When the sensor is fully functional, it should read approximately 1000 ohms. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday accelerating full speed from highway paytoll i had massive power loss as if the engine was running out of gas or injectors are not firing anymore. I took out the spark plugs this morning, 3 were soaked with gasoline and the fourth was dry. I placed a tissue over each injector hole, and when I turn the engine on without sparks, the 3 with gazoline jump out. The fourth one remains closed. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55, 30/55 and 48/55. i get zero ohm. I'm assuming the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it runs fine with the G28 plugged in. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is zero.
I'm not certain what to do, as i believe that i've ruled out everything else. But i'm worried that i might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal sent from the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is identical to the G4 and both are used in the 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars so you can easily find one at a wrecking yard or in a local parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump on the connector's edge facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that must be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make decisions regarding fuel injector timing etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to accomplish this. If either of these sensors go bad you will get codes on the diagnostic scanner which could cause engine shut down.
A malfunctioning G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate gearbox speed counter, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or an unfire when in gear. If you have any of these issues it is likely that your sensor is going bad and needs replacing. They're inexpensive and easy to locate especially if they're an Bosch sensor like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part is an excellent choice.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine sensor could cause a variety of issues in your vehicle. It is an important part of the transmission of your replacement audi key fob, as it transmits information to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's engine is turning. This sensor could cause the transmission to malfunction and other components of the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located near the edge of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It transmits a signal via gray wire to ECU pin T55/49. The ECU is then able to process this signal to control fuel, timig, and boost and then sends it on to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster. You can test for sensor failure by checking continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. You can also verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. You should see approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between those points. This is a common part across the audi q5 key tt audi key programmer case; click over here, 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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